Love, other drugs, Kurdish heat — these were not neat moral opposites but overlapping maps of survival and longing. In the end, the town remained in memory: a quilt of spice and dust, of people who loved in ways both tender and dangerous. They walked away with hands full of jars, a ledger of small mercies, a dog at their heels, and a love that had been tempered, not erased, by the fires they’d passed through.